Hey guys, My power supply just died, so i have 2 choices : - Replace it (it's not modular, fkin POS) on my 6 years old PC (besides the GPU) - Make a new build with my 980 TI in it until the new Nvidia cards are out and swap the 980 TI for a 1180 (i still game in 3440x1440 and like it). The power supply is only 3 years old (or so) i had to replace it because the old one wasn't good enough for the 780 i had, it's really strange that it died just like that on me (PC just went from on to off and that's it). It was an EVGA 750B2, it is now certain that i'll never buy an EVGA again. Breaking down after 3 years when it's behind a surge protector all its life (2 APC protectors now, one for the whole house and one in the socket) is unacceptable. What should i do ? Rebuild now or wait for the new cards ? To give an idea, i think my CPU is an i5 47xxk thingie. In terms of build, i only need something to game in my resolution, including CPU hungry games like Total War 3 kingdoms (i think the total war games are my #1 time sink), so i don't know if an i7 8th would be much better than i5 8th or even AMD, never tried that brand for the past 10 years i think TIA !
Personally... replace the GPU on the assumption that that is the only thing wrong. A similar thing happened to me not so long ago and you probably have a similar spec PC to me. Main reason for just replacing the PSU is that there is always an element of risk replacing PC parts, however small it may be. Blowing up a new motherboard fighting to get a chunky GPU out is one of the worst scenario's - particularly since Nvidia have a nasty habit of covering the catch on your board with big bulky GPU units. Then you can build your new PC around the new card, also gives you more time to put extra cash aside so you could go for a higher spec.
Yeah i guess i'll go for the full spec as soon as the 11 series are out. I bought a supernova G3 750 in the end, it's not expensive (120 CA$) and fully modular. I kinda wanted to keep this PC anyway for TV use, to replace an even older computer (8 years) which has the 780 innit. I took a look at components yesterday but what happened to CPU prices, they are very high, especially Ryzen. A 2700k is the same price than i7 8700k here (bout 430 CA$) for slightly lower perfs in game. I think those 2 are overkill for gaming tho but i might be wrong (total war again). It's going to be expensive and i think i'll have to build it myself, never done the whole thing in one go before, as here the prices are ridiculous (a custom built rig is 3k-4k canadian without even the best parts, talk about ripoff hidden besides watercooling and LED that i don't need).
It is possible that it is not the PSU that died but something else. A short on the motherboard would cause the protection units to kick in and power would shut off exactly like you describe and not allow the PC to turn on again. Have the main power plug unplugged and press the power button. That will drain anylast remaining residual standby power from the system. Plug in the power cord again and hit the power button. Does the computer light up for a split second and then immediately shut down? If so, that is a fault of somekind most likely relating to a short in your hardware. If you try the power button again it most likely wont produce the same behavior, as it is already in fault mode. That is why I had you unplug everything at the beginning to get it out of fault mode. If you do get this behavior, unplug and remove the GPU from the computer. Remove the RAM sticks from the computer. Remove any other add-in cards that you have. Unplug all hard drives from the system. Then try starting the computer again. If you get the same behavior as before then the fault is either going to be on the MB or in the PSU. This will let you know at least whether you can just replace the PSU for now, or if it a possible motherboard problem and you would need a new board
Well yep it's not the PSU, it is, indeed, the damn EVGA 980 TI classified that died. I'm running on a 750 TI now, nice... So, well, that's it. I'll have to play low res games until the new GPUs are out. I don't suppose EVGA has a 3 years warranty haha or that there is any possibility to repair a GPU ? I'll have to replace in a couple months then. Keeping this PC here for TV use and getting a new rig as soon as the new GPUs are out. I have a 3570k in the end, so i think the 8th gen or vega will be a huge improvement ! EDIT : It seems that the card has a 3 years limited warranty, i've purchased it on the 30th of June 2015 so i've asked for the RMA. Let's touch wood and hope it will work.
Well... that sucks. Hopefully you can get a replacement. A 750TI should keep you going on most games though altho at lower quality levels.
Yep battletech and pubg work so it's alright for now lol. What would be an ideal build for this year in qhd wide ? Should I go for Intel or Ryzen ? I suppose the new i5 would be ok for gaming, no need to go for i7 even for total war ? Also for SSD are nvme mandatory now ? I'm clueless about tea as well haven't looked at what's what since ddr4. Mobos are the same, man I'm out of touch totally. Thanks a lot
Id personally go with the new Ryzen 2 series these days. Much better deal than Intel is right now. Any new computer that is going to be around for more than a few years I would not buy with anything less than 12 processing threads. Which means Intel i7, or Ryzen2 5 or 7 series. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113497 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16819113499 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145060 NVME drives are cool, but actual gaming performance isnt much different than SATA drives and they are way cheaper. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147674 Might want to try and snag that while its on sale now just cause. 500GB SSD for $130 is pretty nice. Or this would be the m.2 to get: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147693
Thanks a lot. The stock coolers on the AMD seem to be enough ? I think of getting the Ryzen 5 as it is 283$ here and the 7 is 433$... It seems that there isn't much difference for gaming above 1080p. I believe they have the auto overclock too with XFR ? I don't really want to overclock otherwise especially with stock cooler, I want a cool rig What would be the best RAM to go with all that ? I'm thinking Corsair vengeance 16gb 3200Mhz I also need a box, I like my nzxt Phantom but I'll look at the good looking one. I think the NZXT S340 white is good or the new Phantom whichever is the quietest. The 410 white looks awesome. One option would also to take a 128gb nvme for OS only and keep my 2x500GB SSD (one 950 and one 960) for gaming purposes. The Samsung 960 pro is 130$ for 128, idem for the WD
Well, fuck. The package to EVGA got destroyed (or the EVGA dudes smashed it when it arrived...). So, now, i have to get the insurance claim from post canada (i asked for 750 CA$). It will take two weeks i guess. I don't know what to do then : - Wait for July and the first iterations of 11 series (i kinda prefer waiting for the manufacturers version, which is sept) with a freaking 750 TI card in my PC (meh, i'm gonna barf with those low res textures). - Get a 1080 now (they around the 750 $) or get a 1070 TI ? They both the same price I could get a 1080 on Amazon and return it in one month and do that every month till July mwahahaha. Or i could go for the 1080 TI and not upgrade the PC as i think it's fairly enough for 3440x1440 gaming for now ?
Id wait for new cards, these current ones are over 2 years old already. Time flies, it will be release time before you know it. And the new cards will just seem that much more amazing after being used to playing on low settings
Enigma I have one last question (well, two) : Should I go for the stock cooler on the Ryzen ? (I don't plan on OC) or should I go for something like the thermaltake water 3 which seems pretty easy to install ? Do you know of a good video to build the PC ? There are a ton on YouTube but I guess it's not super hard anyway, depending on the case (to plug the power button and stuff) Thanks !
The stock cooler is pretty good for Ryzen, about equal to the usual Hyper 212 that is always recommended for a good cheap cooler. So just stick with stock and let the CPU overclock itself within your systems limits. This video goes over everything in detail: The video talks quite a bit which is why it is so long, but it holds your hand through every time little thing.
Hm sorry but i have a last question, it's causing a mild headache : Which ram would be fully Ryzen compatible ? I wanted to get the Trident Z RGB 3000MHz (as the 3200 is on backorder for 2 months) but i read that i won't get the 3000Mhz speeds ? The "X" model for AMD : F4-3200C14D-16GTZRX goes for a freaking extra 100$ than the non X it's 338 CA$ !!! While the 3000Mhz is 224 CA$ so, yeah, not sure what to do haha Edit : after looking at the qvl for the ultra gaming I found the Corsair Dominator platinum series on Amazon (CMD16GX4M2B3000C15) which is about the only one under 5000$ and seems a good choice.
Alright, here is my build : - NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340W-W1 (White) - EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 6GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), Only 6.8 Inches Graphics Card 06G-P4-6163-KR (i'll keep it on the "TV" PC for 1080p gaming - 2 of Corsair Air Series AF120 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fan Twin Pack CO-9050016-WLED (White) - EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3, 80 Plus Gold 650W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan, 7 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0650-Y1 (this should be enough for a single 1180 and the ryzen) - Corsair Force MP500 Series M.2 SSD 120GB Internal Drive (CSSD-F120GBMP500) (cheap, for OS) - Samsung 860 Evo M.2 1TB Internal SSD (MZ-N6E1T0BW) [CA Version] (same price than the SATA version) - Gigabyte X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ USB 3.1 Gen 2 (USB3.1) Type A, Type C/ ATX/ DDR4/ Motherboard) - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler - YD270XBGAFBOX (it seems that the wraith prism is somewhat better than the R5 2600X cooler and a noctua is 100$ which is more or less the diff between the 2600X and 2700X) - Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB DDR4 Dram 3000MHz C15 Memory Kit for Systems 3000 MT/S CMD16GX4M2B3000C15 (zooo expensive i'm crying, it costs more than the freaking MOBO and more than a Ryzen 5) Damn you QVL, can't find the "cheap" (ie 20 bucks less lol) ram there.
You could always go with an 8GB ram kit for now and upgrade to 16 or 32 GB down the line. Ram prices should be dropping either next year or maybe 2020 as the lawsuits mount and price fixing stops.
Yeah i thought about it but it but i got enough pain finding the right kit hahaha. I thought 260$ was, like, price for 32GB or 64Gb not too long ago ?
yes indeed it was. I have 64GB of tight timing DDR-3400 that cost $275 2 years ago. Then all the major DRAM players decided to cut production even though demand was rising and collude on raising prices together because the market was "unprofitable" even while they were posting record profits every year. They have done this every RAM generation for decades now, so nothing new. Generation launches, prices are high as tech is new and production low, prices drop as mass production begins, manufacturers decide they want more money so price collusion starts and prices tripple, governments step in with lawesuits and fine the companies millions of dollars, prices drop. New generation launches, repeat. We are already entering the lawesuit phase as the first one was already filed. So prices will drop in 1-2 years as the suits get settled. And those of us who bougyht now will get our $5 refund in a couple years. If we can dig up a receipt. Yay.